PASTA PARADIES AT THE CENTARA

       With its "Lost World" theme, the new Centara Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya is a family destination painstakingly decorated with a novel jungle setting and a water-adventure park.
       No need for Robinson Crusoe's ship-wreck- survivor skills, though: The hotel provides everythin you need.
       Its Italian restaurant, Acqua, is a standout example. Still a bit shy of diners after just a month in business, Acqua is certain to become busy thanks to its wonderful ambience and great food.
       Maroon upholstered chairs and white-linen tablecloths, bone china and gleaming silverware provide an elegant counterpoint to the resort's theme decor of natural wood, rocks and bamboo poles.
       The "aqua" of the name comes out in wooden partitions shaped like coral and suspended mobiles that resemble swimming fish. The ceiling lamps are roughly coiled in the bark of mulberry trees and resemble sea urchins.
       The 12-seat outdoor terrace is a great spot to gaze on the sea and the sunset. Another dozen people can gather around separate, private dining tables inside.
       The 120-seat Acqua serves "classic modern Italian" dishes created by chef Stefano Belardi, a kitchen veteran since age 15 who's cooked in Greece, Switzerland and Ukraine as well as his homeland.
       Belardi says he pays strict attention to his native Italian culinary culture but is happy to compromise a little to meet Thai tastes, such as boosting the spiciness quotient.
       "The most vital part of Italian cuisine is using lots of fresh vegetables, from parsley and eggplant to tomato and thyme," he enthuses. "This ensures the best natural taste, and the chef's job is to keep everything is as natural as possible".
       For a light and delightful starter, the chef recommends his yellowfin tuna, imported from Singapore and marinated in lemon juice, peper and salt. It comes with a red-onion salad, cherry tomato and coriander and costs Bt550.
       From the restaurant's own pizza oven comes such treats as pizza with speck and rucola salad for Bt650, but Belardi insists that pizza isn't a main course, merely a complement to it.
       Next he has spinach tagliatelle with cherry tomato, basil and extra virgin olive oil for Bt290. It sounds simple, but it's tasty beyond expectations.
       Then there's the Bt1,200 18-month-grain-fed Australian beef fillet - 220 grams of prime succulence served with wild mushrooms, polenta crutons and sauteed crunchy spinach.