FLIPPING OUT ON PHUKET

       Not known as big air travellers, it seems strange that the turtles of Phuket should choose Mai Khao beach to lay their eggs. The sands are just a few flipper flaps from Phuket International Airport, but perhaps the turtles are drawn by the local JW Marriott, right on the beach. Since it opened in 2002, the resort has donated significant sums of money each year to conserve the endangered species.
       I washes up at Phuket's Marriott last month, when rainstorms were lashing the island several times a day. Mai Khao beach was peaceful and empty of tourists, but its three-metre high waves looked unswimmable. That judgement was obviously shared by the turtles, who has left the 17-kilometre strip of sand to the wind and rain.
       Despits the inclement weather, couples and families were out in force at the resort, enjoying the three swimming pools that sprawl across the large grounds. The Main Pool in the middle of the resort is a whopping 107 metres long and comes complete with children's pool, slide, Jacuzzi and waterfalls. The North Pool is also the size of a lake but more tranquil while the Blue Pool to the south is a little livelier with a bar in the middle. With lagoons like these on your doorstep, who needs the sea?
       Also on the grand scale is the resort's choice of guestrooms, 265 in all and 13 of them suites. I opted for one of the Deluxe rooms. Generous with space. they offer a minimum 47 square metres with a private balcony and sala-style lounge. Drawing back the curtain I got an eyeful of lush gardens and blue sea.
       Although the balcony is a little cramped compared with the room itself, I was well satisfied. The bed is roomy and I had no complaints about the bathroom, which has both bathtub and shower area.
       Back in the living room there's a DVD player, satellite TV, Internet access, mini bar, coffee/tea making facilities and safety deposit box. No need for an upgrade then, but if had felt like treating myself, the Royal Suite has a princely 340 square metres plus 300 metres of garden with an 18-metre pool and heated outdoor whirlpool.
       A stroll around the resort quickly convinces you that a map is a must. Aside from the sheer size of the place, it's hard to keep track of where all the restaurants are. Breakfast is served at the Marriott Cafe but the options get more complicated for lunch and dinner. If you can find them, there's Cucina for Italian dining, the Andaman Grill for seafood lovers, Ginja Taste Thai restaurant, the Kabuki sushi bar and the Siam Deli. The poolside bars also do snacks and light meals.
       After pampering their tastebuds, guests can sample the menu at the Mandara Spa. Its stunning architecture houses 16 treatment suites. Those who've piled on the pounds can take advantage of the health club and fitness centre nearby. Well equiped, it comes with a sauna and Jacuzzi to wind down from your workout. If you're feeling sporty you can ask the friendly staff for directions to the resort's tennis courts or to the golf course at the Blue canyon Country Club just up the road. Meanwhile, younger folk can get their kicks at the Children's Pavilion.
       Visitors who arrive towards the end of next month will find much calmer seas and plenty of opportunities for swimming, diving and other water sports. Perhaps the turtles will be back, too.
       With last year's opening of the nearby Anantara Phuket resort as well as the launch of Turtle Village, a small shopping and dining complex, Mai Khao beach feels a little less secluded than it once did. But only a little - those seeking the bright city lights still have a long journey to find them. Thai's fine with the guests who come back year after year to the Marriot on Mai Khao. Peace and seclusion is obviously their idea of a good time.